The Guide
REIN
The Fibre Authentification Guide
Most pashmina sold in Europe is a blend. This guide gives you the tools to tell the difference — what the fibre specifications mean, what blends look like, and what questions to ask any supplier.
01. What is Chyangra pashmina?
The animal
Chyangra is the Nepali name for the Himalayan mountain goat (Capra hircus), a specific breed found above 4,000 metres in the high-altitude regions of Nepal - particularly Dolpo, Mustang, and Humla. It is not a generic cashmere goat. The altitude and climate produce a fibre with distinct physical properties that cannot be replicated at lower elevations.
The fibre
Chyangra produces two types of fibre: a coarse outer (guard hair) and a fine inner undercoat. Only the undercoat is used. Each Chyangra goat produces 80–200 grams of combable fibre per year - not shorn, combed by hand during the natural moulting season. A single standard-weight pashmina scarf requires the fibre of three to four animals.
| Fibre Specifications | Chyangra Standard |
| Fibre diameter | 12–16 microns (average 14.5 microns) |
| Staple length | 30–60 mm |
| Annual yield per animal | 80–200 g combable fibre |
| Origin altitude | 4,000 m+ |
| Processing method | Hand-combed during natural moult |
| Comparison: finest cashmere | 14–18 microns (Mongolian average: 16) |
| Comparison: standard cashmere | 18–22 microns |
02. What the Chyangra certification actually means
The Chyangra Pashmina Trademark is administered by the Nepal Pashmina Industries Association (NPIA), an independent standards body. It is not self-certified, not brand certified, and not purchasable. A product carrying the mark must meet independently verified standards at every stage of the supply chain.
What the certification covers
- Fibre origin — verified as Chyangra in a lab, not substituted cashmere or synthetic blend
- Fibre diameter — tested against the 16 micron maximum threshold
- Processing method — hand processed in Nepal, not machine-blended
- Labelling compliance — no misleading blend descriptions
- Supply chain traceability — from herder to finished product
What it does not cover
The certification verifies fibre origin and physical properties. It does not independently verify artisan income, working conditions, or environmental practices. REIN addresses these separately through WFTO accreditation of co-ops or our artisan documentation and earnings disclosure programme.
In a market full of ‘handmade’ and ‘artisan’ claims, the Chyangra mark is independently controlled and stringently standards-governed. Competitors cannot claim it without meeting the same criteria.
How to verify a certificate
Every REIN product carries a certification number - you will find it on the hologram sticker in its tag. You can request verification documentation from us directly, cross-reference against NPIA records. We encourage this. The industry has relied on buyers not asking.
03. What the blends look like
Understanding how blends are produced — and how they are sold — is the fastest way to identify them.
Common blend types — by composition
| Blend type | What it contains |
| Pashmina / silk blend | Typically 70% Chyangra, 30% silk. Changes drape and lustre. Legitimate |
| Cashmere blend | Chyangra mixed with standard cashmere. Micron count rises. Sold as ‘pashmina’ misleadingly. Misleading |
| Viscose / acrylic blend | Synthetic fibre blended with animal fibre or sold alone. Common across European markets. Fraudulent |
| Full synthetic | No animal fibre. Common in tourist markets. Often labelled ‘pashmina-feel’ or ‘soft pashmina’. Fraudulent |
How to identify a blend without testing
Laboratory testing (fibre diameter analysis under microscopy) is the definitive method. In the absence of a laboratory these indicators are reliable:
- Price: genuine Chyangra pashmina cannot be produced at price points below approximately 80–100 pounds for a standard scarf. Below this threshold, the fibre cost alone makes it economically impossible.
- Burn test: animal fibre burns like hair — slowly, with a smell of burning protein, leaving a crushable ash. Synthetic blends melt, bead and smell of burning plastic.
- Certification: ask for the Chyangra mark and the certification number. Absence of a verifiable certification number is a strong indicator of a blend.
- Yarn appearance: Chyangra pashmina yarn is slightly irregular under magnification — the result of hand-spinning. Machine-processed blends show uniform twist and diameter.
04. Yak wool — what it is and why it is different
Yak wool occupies a separate category from pashmina. It is produced by the domesticated yak (Bos grunniens), also found above 3,500 metres across the Himalayas and Tibetan plateau.
Fibre properties
| Specification | Yak standard |
| Fibre diameter | 16–20 microns (inner coat) |
| Staple length | 25–50 mm |
| Thermal properties | Higher warmth-to-weight ratio than cashmere |
| Processing method | Hand-combed from inner coat, not sheared |
| Natural colours | Brown, black, grey — rarely requires dyeing |
| Global production volume | Significantly lower than cashmere — limited Western availability |
Our yak wool is from baby yaks who naturally shed their fur in their first Spring. The animals have traditionally accompanied nomadic people in the mountains and provided transportation. REIN sources combed fibre only.
Most Western suppliers have never handled genuine yak wool. Its scarcity in European retail is a function of supply, not demand.
05. Questions to ask a pashmina supplier
These questions are designed to separate verifiable claims from marketing language. A supplier with a legitimate supply chain will answer all of them.
On certification
- Does this product carry the Chyangra mark? What is the fibre composition?
- Can you provide the NPIA verification documentation for this product?
- If the product is labelled ‘pashmina’ without the Chyangra mark, what is the fibre composition?
On the fibre
- What is the fibre diameter in microns? Has this been independently tested?
- Is the yarn hand-spun or machine-processed? Can you demonstrate the difference?
- Where is the fibre combed and spun — in Nepal, or processed elsewhere?
On the supply chain
- Can you name the herder community or cooperative that produced this fibre?
- What is the artisan’s income from this piece?
A supplier who cannot or will not answer these questions is not operating a traceable supply chain. This is not unusual — most of the market does not. It is, however, something you should know before purchasing.